Tongyeong

Tongyeong earns the “Naples of Korea” label more convincingly than most nicknames earn their comparisons. The city wraps around a harbor studded with islands in the way that Italian coastal towns wrap around their coves — blue-hulled fishing boats in the foreground, terraced houses climbing the hillside behind, and a cable car rising above all of it to a viewpoint that makes the scale of the island-scattered bay suddenly comprehensible.

I came from Busan on a bus that took 1.5 hours and arrived thinking I would spend a night and move on. I stayed three days. The seafood market at Jungangdong caught me first — raw oysters at ₩5,000 for a generous plate, opened to order and eaten standing at the stall with a squirt of lime and a daub of gochujang. Then the cable car to the top of Mireuksan, where the view of 570 islands in the Hallyeohaesang National Park stretched to what my eyes insisted was the curve of the earth. Then the Dongpirang Mural Village above the harbor, where the hillside staircases are painted by Korean and international muralists.

The Yi Sun-sin dimension gives Tongyeong a historical gravity that most Korean coastal towns lack. The admiral who saved Korea from Japanese invasion in 1597 — widely considered the greatest naval commander in Korean history — fought his most significant battles in these waters. The Hansan Island sea battle of 1592, where Yi Sun-sin used his turtle ships to destroy the Japanese fleet, happened within sight of the city. The Naval History Museum at Sedo Park is excellent and free.

The sea squirt (meongge) is an acquired taste that I acquired here. It looks alarming (bright orange, gelatinous), smells strongly of the sea, and has a flavor that is intensely briny and slightly acidic. Eaten raw at the market with a small cup of makgeolli, it is a Tongyeong experience that does not exist anywhere else in Korea at this level of freshness.

Why Tongyeong should be on your itinerary

Tongyeong is the most underrated city on Korea’s south coast and the best counterargument to the Seoul-Busan binary that most travel itineraries follow. It is small enough to walk (most attractions are within 2km of the harbor), distinctive enough to feel entirely unlike any other Korean city, and rich enough in seafood culture, naval history, and island scenery to hold attention for 2-3 days without repetition.

The Hallyeohaesang National Marine Park that surrounds the city is one of Korea’s most beautiful marine environments — 570 islands of varying size scattered across a body of water that stays remarkably calm due to the island barrier from the open sea. Ferries to Somaemuldo (a small island with walking trails and a lighthouse, 30 min, ₩12,000 return) and to Bijindo (known for a double sunset phenomenon where the sun sets twice as it descends between island ridges) depart regularly from the passenger terminal.

The cultural layer comes from Tongyeong’s unusual history as a naval headquarters city (the Joseon government established the Samdobuyeong naval command here in 1603) and from the fact that multiple significant Korean artists — composer Yun Isang, painter Jeon Hyeok-nim, and writer Park Kyung-ni — were born here. The city has channeled this into a genuine arts culture that is visible in the murals, galleries, and the annual Tongyeong International Music Festival (April).

What should you do in Tongyeong?

Hanryeo Cable Car — Korea’s first cable car when built in 1962, recently renovated. Rises from Dosoryeong Pass to Mireuksan summit (461m) with panoramic views over 570 islands of Hallyeohaesang National Marine Park. ₩12,000 return. At the summit, a short walk leads to the Hanbandovia observation deck where, on clear days, the island-scattered sea is extraordinary. Best at dusk.

Dongpirang Mural Village — A hillside neighborhood above the harbor where international and Korean muralists have painted every staircase, wall, and alley over the last decade. The mural project began in 2007 to prevent demolition and has become one of Korea’s most successful cultural rejuvenation projects. Free to walk; allow 1-2 hours for the full circuit.

Yi Sun-sin Naval History Museum — Located at Sedo Park, this museum covers the career and battles of Admiral Yi Sun-sin with emphasis on the turtle ship (geobukseon) design and the specific battles in the Tongyeong area. Free entry. The replica turtle ship in the courtyard is impressive in person.

Tongyeong Underwater Tunnel — Korea’s first road tunnel (built 1932, opened 1938 during Japanese occupation) runs 483 meters under the harbor channel, connecting the main city to Misugumdo. Still in regular use. Free to walk through. The tunnel has an eerie quality — it is narrow, cool, and has been carrying traffic for nearly 90 years.

Somaemuldo Island Day Trip — A 30-minute ferry from the passenger terminal (₩12,000 return) to a small island with a 2-hour circular hiking trail along dramatic coastal cliffs, a lighthouse, and one of Korea’s most photographed sunrise viewpoints. The trail is manageable for most fitness levels. A favorite day trip for Koreans.

Jungangdong Market — The central covered seafood market with raw oysters (₩5,000/plate), sea squirt (meongge, ₩5,000-8,000), fresh hoe sashimi, and sea cucumber. The market is most active from 6-11 AM. Eat at the stalls; find a plastic stool and commit.

Where should you eat in Tongyeong?

• Jungangdong Market morning stalls — Raw oysters (₩5,000/plate), sea squirt meongge (₩5,000-8,000), sea cucumber, and fresh fish from 6-11 AM. Stand-up eating at plastic stools. The most authentic Tongyeong food experience.
• Harbor hoe restaurants — Fresh raw fish (hoe) sashimi platters at the waterfront restaurants along the ferry terminal area. Choose your fish from the tank. ₩25,000-50,000/person for a full platter. Best for groups of 2-4 who can share varieties.
• Tongyeong gungmyeon — A local noodle specialty: thin handmade noodles in a cold anchovy broth, served with seasoned squid. Unique to Tongyeong and unavailable elsewhere. ₩8,000-10,000/bowl. Ask your guesthouse for the best current restaurant.
• Bibimbap at the market — Tongyeong’s port-area market serves excellent inexpensive bibimbap with local mountain vegetables. ₩8,000-10,000/bowl. Good for a quick lunch after the morning oyster market.
• Island ferry food — The Somaemuldo ferry pier has basic tents serving squid and Korean snacks before and after the ferry. ₩5,000-10,000 for a pre-hike snack.
• Makgeolli at waterfront bars — Evening makgeolli bars along the harbor with seafood anju (fish cake, seasoned squid, oyster). ₩15,000-25,000/person for a full evening of drinks and snacks.

Where should you stay in Tongyeong?

Budget (₩40,000-80,000/night, $29-59): Several guesthouses and pensions cluster near the harbor and ferry terminal. Walking distance to the market and all main attractions. Budget guesthouses from ₩40,000-60,000/night. Book ahead for the April International Music Festival.

Mid-Range (₩70,000-150,000/night, $52-111): The Tongyeong Tourist Hotel at ₩80,000-120,000/night is the most consistently well-reviewed mid-range option. Harbor-view rooms are worth the small premium. Several pension accommodations in the hills above the Dongpirang Mural Village offer good views.

Unique — Somaemuldo Island — If you want to stay on the island itself, a handful of small guesthouses operate there (₩50,000-80,000/night). The last ferry back to Tongyeong leaves in the early evening; staying overnight means you have the island trails in the early morning before day-trippers arrive on the first ferry.

When is the best time to visit Tongyeong?

Spring (April-May): The Tongyeong International Music Festival (April) fills the city with classical concerts in unusual venues — harbor pavilions, fortress walls, and the cable car platform. Cherry blossoms in late March-early April. The sea is calm and island ferries operate reliably.

Autumn (September-October): The clearest cable car views of the island-scattered sea. Comfortable temperatures (12-18°C). Oyster season peaks in autumn — September-November produces the best south coast oysters. Strong second choice.

Summer (June-August): Hot (28-32°C) but the sea breeze in Tongyeong is better than in inland cities. Island ferries are fully operational. The music festival is followed by summer arts programming. Busier with domestic tourists.

Winter (November-February): Cold (3-10°C) with a sharp coastal wind. Oyster season continues through winter and quality remains high. Far fewer tourists. The mural village and cable car are accessible but cold. The market and harbor restaurants operate year-round.

Tongyeong is the Korea trip’s best-kept secret. Most foreign visitors never reach it; most Korean visitors wish they had come sooner. Give it two nights, eat at the morning oyster market, take the cable car at dusk over the islands, and get on the first ferry to Somaemuldo. You will understand what the Naples comparison means. Plan the south coast circuit at our Korea travel guide or explore more destinations at the destinations page.